"Eh, I'd rather not talk about it, so how are you?"
If you really don't want to talk about it, and it's not going great, and you don't want to lie, this is the answer you should give.
Now, some people will try to press you for more details, even though you just told them you don't want to talk about it, which is why you're shifting to focus to them right after saying so.
If they insist on asking for more details, just reiterate that you'd really rather not talk about it.
At that point, it's simply rude to keep pressing. Just remember - you don't have an obligation to anyone to talk about your thesis if you don't want to.
Mind, if it's going well, then disregard this advice - telling people you'd 'rather not talk about it' gives the impression that it isn't going well.
If you want to give the impression that it's going alright, say instead "Well, it's going okay, but I'd rather not talk about it" - which delivers the same message, but helps give the impression that you're doing fine.
Unfortunately, there's no real way to give a 'neutral' impression, because not wanting to talk about it gives a default impression that it isn't going well - this is cultural, and there's no real way to get around it.
Either way, you may get pressed for more details, but in both cases, you are not obliged to provide any.